Friday, March 28, 2014

Spring Break in Cabo

Cody, Itai and I headed up to Bishop (ok I lied, whatever) early on Sunday morning. We grabbed a quick breakfast in Independence  Lone Pine Big Pine (?) and headed straight for the Buttermilks where we met up with Marina, Jake and Chris. Here are a few photos from day uno y dos. 

Chris sending Center Direct (V10) 
Itai shaking off on a jug after a flash of Cocktail Sauce (V10)
Itai running up a slab on the backside of the Saigon boulder
Itai working a lukewarm slab on the roadside boulders
On day 2 we headed up to the classic High Plains Drifter (V7), where the gang (and 17 other dude-man-bros) all had a solid session. Here are a few photos: 

Marina reaching for the pinch
Jake placing the heel
Cody throwing for the crimp
Itai and Cody taking in the view after back-to-back ascents - choo choo!
Cody and Itai left early on day 3, and the rest of us decided to have a half day at the Happys before heading home.  I'd be lying to you if I said it was complaint free, but hey, we had fun - right?
 Here are some pictures that make it seem like we had a chance of sending stuff that day...

Marina getting familiar with the moves on Morning Dove White (V8)
Working out the foot sequence on He Got Game (V11) - PC: Marina Campana

As always, it was wonderful to be outdoors. Can't be more excited for this upcoming spring season. See you guys out there!
P.S. Congrats to Chris for sending The Buttermilker! yaa boooyyyy

- Eden

Sunday, March 9, 2014

The Send: Bouldering Competition

I made my way to Slo Op on Friday afternoon to help forerun the problems. It was t-minus 15 hours until the annual Slo Op CCS Competition began. The routes were looking great, and the finalists were in for a surprising dyno!

On Saturday, climbing teams from Cal Poly, Davis, Stanford, Humboldt and Sierra-Nevada drove in to town to compete for the win. Amongst the Stanford crowd was Andy Lamb, fresh off of the ABS Nationals podium. It was a stiff competition with some crazy finals routes!

As always, the event was fun and exciting (with lots of beer). Check out the short highlight video I made if you missed out or just want to re-live the comp.

Disclaimer: This video was not produced by LT11. Please lower your expectations before watching.

Thank you Slo Op and volunteers for putting on this awesome event each year!

- Itai          

Saturday, February 22, 2014

ABS 15 National Championships

(click the image for a preview of Nationals)

ABS 15 finals are coming up at 6:30 PST. Live stream via lt11 can be found here:

Good luck to the finalists, can't wait to watch!
And good job to all the other competitors as well, its been an inspirational weekend.

- Eden and Itai

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Back in the Milks

This past weekend, Chris, Avi and I headed down south for a much needed Bishop adventure. We met up with Marina, Jake, Mike and few others. We arrived early enough on Friday to squeeze out a half day of climbing, during which we all realized that our soft and precious skin wasn't going to survive the weekend. Nonetheless, we managed to have a very memorable trip with some notable sends!

Marina warming up on quintessential Bishop patina
Jake and Avi working on Bowling Pin Sit (V6)
Young Mike throwing hard on Zen Flute (V10) and then celebrating the send
Saturday's session was cut short by afternoon winds (up to 50mph). We rushed back to our campsite and found our tents scattered some 30 feet away. The winds were persisting, so we quickly dismantled the tents and decided to share a motel room for the night.

On Sunday I worked one of my long standing projects, Direction (V13).
Unfortunately, I couldn't send it because (circle all that apply):
I'm not in shape / I'm injured / the shoes weren't right / the temps were awful / the wind / that one dude was coughing while I was trying to send / I forgot to have coffee / my skin / I wasn't "feeling it" / a dog peed on my draw-string bag (<-- true story)

But here's a photo of me on it anyway
Photo by Chris Llewellyn (@christfiz)
Even though Monday was only a half day, it was arguably the most eventful day of our trip. Marina crushed Smooth Shrimp (V6), Avi snagged the classic Fly Boy Arete (V5), Chris sent Buttermilker stand (V12), and I salvaged the trip with a first-go send of Cocktail Sauce (V10). On our way out we even got to see an inspirational send of Footprints (V9) - good job Ethan (and Wes?)!

Me on Cocktail Sauce (V10)
Chris on Buttermilker stand (V12)
Ethan Pringle cruising up Footprints (V9)
The Crew
This trip helped me realize how excited I am to get back in to climbing after this extended hiatus. Look out for more trips in the near future. Love, peace and chicken grease.

- Eden

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Red Rock, NV

Finals were over quickly this quarter and I was itching to get outside and climb. I picked up Joe and we met up with Cody for a few days of partying in Las Vegas sandstone bouldering.

The Gambling Capital of the World, nestled away in the desert of southern Nevada.
We passed by the tempting signs for Bishop, CA along the 58 but continued on towards Nevada. When we arrived in Red Rock, we set up camp amidst some rowdy neighbors and thieving coyotes before sneaking in a sunset session at the Kraft boulders.

Cody, climbing the Kraft area classic, The Pearl (V4/5).
It was my first trip to the area, and I was excited to explore some sandstone for a change. Joe, who had been to Red Rock just two weeks earlier, guided us around and showed us some of the best climbs the Kraft boulders and the surrounding areas had to offer.

Joe, on the tricky arĂȘtes of Pork Chop (V2/3).
Cody, on the same.
Joe, committing to the throw on Triple Sow Cow (V6).
Cody, searching for a foot on his send of Scare Tactics (V10).
Joe, with an impressive flash of Vigilante (V10).
After five days on, it was obvious that we needed a rest. We took a rock stacking siesta before getting in the last bit of climbing and heading back to camp for an early bedtime. We got nearly twelve uninterrupted hours of sleep (the coyote struck again,) before making the drive home.

The rock climber in its natural habitat.
Despite our extended trip, we left most of Red Rock unexplored and vowed to return shortly. 
I’ll be back!

- Itai

Friday, December 6, 2013

The Overlife

Last summer, Rich Salamone and his crew filmed a short video featuring my brother and I climbing at Black Mountain, CA. Check out the video, The Overlife. Great job guys!

The Overlife (

Did he fall, or finish the climb? 

- Itai or Eden?

Monday, October 14, 2013

Fall is Here!

Although we still have beach weather in San Luis Obispo, it is October in Bishop and the temps were looking good enough to venture outside for the first trip of the season. Joe, Sara, Sam and I rendezvoused with Cody, Alex and (surprisingly) Adam at the Buttermilks for a mellow weekend on granite.

Joe, trying to find a hold on Saigon Direct (V9).
Sam, enjoying the view from the Grandpa Peabody.
Cody, reaching far on Moonraker (V8).
We spent most of our time meandering around the main Buttermilks area with one morning spent at the Secrets. The Secrets of the Beehive area is home to some of Bishop’s most inspiring lines. However, we opted out of trying more highballs and enjoyed the unique granite huecos of the Queen Sweet Nectar boulder. The four guys made quick work of Queen Sweet Nectar (V9), while Sara battled some slab on the other side of the boulder. (She also ate all of my dark chocolate covered espresso beans.)

Sara, trusting her footwork.
A cliché black and white photograph of a mountain.

It feels great to be back on rock after not climbing for so long. Seems like my tendons might be making a comeback. Stay classy San Luis Obispo.  

   - Itai