Monday, October 6, 2014

Pine Mountain

Yesterday Marina, Jake and I headed up to Pine Mountain for a much needed escape from the city. Pine Mountain is situated above Ojai, in Reyes Peak - with an elevation of roughly 7,000 feet. It was my first time going to this crag, and I was excited to explore yet another climbing area.

The drive up

Reyes Peak Campgrounds
We jumped on a few classics and socialized with the other climbers that were out there. I managed to snag a send of 911 (V8), and unlock all the moves on Whiplash (V11). Hopefully I can return in more optimal temps in order to link the moves.

Jake gettin high on a V4?

Marina, finding out that flies and slab don't mix

Flies and slab don't mix - seriously, don't swat and slab

Me, grunting on Whiplash (PC: Marina)

All in all, it was not the most eventful day, and our trip was actually cut short due to the heat and the flies - but mostly the flies. I would spare you the details, but putting up a complaint-free blog is just not my style. So, if you aren't a fan of melodramatic tangents, feel free to skip the following rant paragraph.

There. Were. So. Many. Flies. 
I mean, if I had a dollar for every fly out there, I'd breach the Forbes 100 list. And these flies were far from docile. In fact, they were closer to masochistic. What makes flies act this way? It was like they all came from broken homes and had "seen some shit". They meant business and they had strength in numbers. Didn't they have something better to do than chip away at our mental fortitude? They were determined, like a middle school bully, pushing his victim to the edge of a psychotic breakdown. As hours passed, each buzz became more and more potent. They had an uncanny ability to break you mentally. By the end, it felt like they were flying by my ear and whispering shit about my most personal insecurities. I would try and think about where to place my feet and instead I'd end up dwelling on the fact that I'll never be able to grow a beard, or that I couldn't send that one V3 in Squamish last summer. How the hell do these flies know that I'm sensitive about my inability to grow facial hair? Are flies psychic? Seriously, can someone please enlighten me as to what the purpose of a fly is!? Thanks for making us leave early, assholes. 

- Eden 

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Goodbye San Luis Obispo

After four amazing years, it is time to say goodbye to San Luis Obispo. Luckily, before I left I got the chance to show my brother around Bishop Peak and reclimb some of my favorites.

I know Bishop Peak is not world class climbing, but I forget how spoiled I have been to have some rock 5 minutes from my apartment. I’m going to miss this place.

Goodbye San Luis Obispo.

- Itai

Monday, July 28, 2014

Purple Stones

Hmmmm, the Purple Stones, where to begin?

Last weekend I headed to the Purple Stones with Marina, Jake and Alex. This was our first time exploring this local crag, and we were eager to get outdoors for the day. Little did we know that we were about to have quite an adventure - perhaps one that is more fit for Bilbo Baggins than a group of spoiled LA climbers. The approach begins alongside Topanga Canyon highway, where one is forced to partake in a live game of frogger. Next, you must descend down a long and ominous drainage pipe, which really puts your hobophobia to the test. When If you emerge, you then follow a creek for about 15 minutes, after which you finally reach a cluster of boulders that are purple - yes, purple. In fact, the Purple Stones are hypothesized to be the birthplace of A$AP Rocky. This should come as no surprise, since one of his most famous songs, "Purple Swag", very clearly pays homage to this mysterious crag. Anyway, here is a quick photo montage of our day.


Tunnel descent

Emerging from the tunnel

"I said, everything is purple (swag)" - A$AP Rocky, Purple Stones local
By the time we reached the actual climbing destination it was fairly late and we were drained. Nonetheless we had a go at some routes. Here are some photos of the climbs we complained about. 

Alex working out the sequence on some piece of rock
Group sesh on Purple Prow, V8?

Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
These boulders were purple,
I bid you adieu

- Eden

Friday, March 28, 2014

Spring Break in Cabo

Cody, Itai and I headed up to Bishop (ok I lied, whatever) early on Sunday morning. We grabbed a quick breakfast in Independence  Lone Pine Big Pine (?) and headed straight for the Buttermilks where we met up with Marina, Jake and Chris. Here are a few photos from day uno y dos. 

Chris sending Center Direct (V10) 
Itai shaking off on a jug after a flash of Cocktail Sauce (V10)
Itai running up a slab on the backside of the Saigon boulder
Itai working a lukewarm slab on the roadside boulders
On day 2 we headed up to the classic High Plains Drifter (V7), where the gang (and 17 other dude-man-bros) all had a solid session. Here are a few photos: 

Marina reaching for the pinch
Jake placing the heel
Cody throwing for the crimp
Itai and Cody taking in the view after back-to-back ascents - choo choo!
Cody and Itai left early on day 3, and the rest of us decided to have a half day at the Happys before heading home.  I'd be lying to you if I said it was complaint free, but hey, we had fun - right?
 Here are some pictures that make it seem like we had a chance of sending stuff that day...

Marina getting familiar with the moves on Morning Dove White (V8)
Working out the foot sequence on He Got Game (V11) - PC: Marina Campana

As always, it was wonderful to be outdoors. Can't be more excited for this upcoming spring season. See you guys out there!
P.S. Congrats to Chris for sending The Buttermilker! yaa boooyyyy

- Eden

Sunday, March 9, 2014

The Send: Bouldering Competition

I made my way to Slo Op on Friday afternoon to help forerun the problems. It was t-minus 15 hours until the annual Slo Op CCS Competition began. The routes were looking great, and the finalists were in for a surprising dyno!

On Saturday, climbing teams from Cal Poly, Davis, Stanford, Humboldt and Sierra-Nevada drove in to town to compete for the win. Amongst the Stanford crowd was Andy Lamb, fresh off of the ABS Nationals podium. It was a stiff competition with some crazy finals routes!

As always, the event was fun and exciting (with lots of beer). Check out the short highlight video I made if you missed out or just want to re-live the comp.

Disclaimer: This video was not produced by LT11. Please lower your expectations before watching.

Thank you Slo Op and volunteers for putting on this awesome event each year!

- Itai          

Saturday, February 22, 2014

ABS 15 National Championships

(click the image for a preview of Nationals)

ABS 15 finals are coming up at 6:30 PST. Live stream via lt11 can be found here:

Good luck to the finalists, can't wait to watch!
And good job to all the other competitors as well, its been an inspirational weekend.

- Eden and Itai

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Back in the Milks

This past weekend, Chris, Avi and I headed down south for a much needed Bishop adventure. We met up with Marina, Jake, Mike and few others. We arrived early enough on Friday to squeeze out a half day of climbing, during which we all realized that our soft and precious skin wasn't going to survive the weekend. Nonetheless, we managed to have a very memorable trip with some notable sends!

Marina warming up on quintessential Bishop patina
Jake and Avi working on Bowling Pin Sit (V6)
Young Mike throwing hard on Zen Flute (V10) and then celebrating the send
Saturday's session was cut short by afternoon winds (up to 50mph). We rushed back to our campsite and found our tents scattered some 30 feet away. The winds were persisting, so we quickly dismantled the tents and decided to share a motel room for the night.

On Sunday I worked one of my long standing projects, Direction (V13).
Unfortunately, I couldn't send it because (circle all that apply):
I'm not in shape / I'm injured / the shoes weren't right / the temps were awful / the wind / that one dude was coughing while I was trying to send / I forgot to have coffee / my skin / I wasn't "feeling it" / a dog peed on my draw-string bag (<-- true story)

But here's a photo of me on it anyway
Photo by Chris Llewellyn (@christfiz)
Even though Monday was only a half day, it was arguably the most eventful day of our trip. Marina crushed Smooth Shrimp (V6), Avi snagged the classic Fly Boy Arete (V5), Chris sent Buttermilker stand (V12), and I salvaged the trip with a first-go send of Cocktail Sauce (V10). On our way out we even got to see an inspirational send of Footprints (V9) - good job Ethan (and Wes?)!

Me on Cocktail Sauce (V10)
Chris on Buttermilker stand (V12)
Ethan Pringle cruising up Footprints (V9)
The Crew
This trip helped me realize how excited I am to get back in to climbing after this extended hiatus. Look out for more trips in the near future. Love, peace and chicken grease.

- Eden