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Black Friday @ Tramway

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Yesterday Norm and I headed up to Tramway to get outdoors and escape the record-breaking heat.
We began our day by warming up and then heading to my project Black Mamba (V12). It started off well, but I tweaked my shoulder on one of the goes and decided to take a break and come back later. After that, we went looking for Barefoot Sharma Arete (V8), which took an embarrassingly long time considering we had the guide. But once we found our bearings we jumped on a few new and enjoyable climbs!




It was getting later and we decided to start heading out and back to the tram. But before that, we made a pit stop at the project and I sent it!! So happy to finally put this one down.



- Eden



Bishop with Fall Weather!

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Itai, Marina and I took advantage of the long weekend and headed out to Bishop on Friday morning. The weather was crisp and cold and it finally began to feel like real fall weather - psych was high! Following the morning ritual of grabbing coffee in town, we drove straight to my project (where we met up with Pete). I warmed up to the best of my ability and decided it was time to get on it. My first go went alright. I fell on the second move. It was a warm-up burn. I took a 5-10 minute break and hopped back on. I stuck the second move and knew it was time to capitalize. I moved through the upper section with beta I had never tried before... but when it works, it works! I can't really put in to words how excited I am to finish this one up! This send means the world to me, and I'm sure my brother feels the same way (about his). We had our eyes set on The Swarm since last April when we knew we would have some free time this summer for training. In late spring we reached out to Ta…

Black Mamba

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Eden, Marina and I headed out to Tramway with the objective of putting down Black Mamba. This Tramway crimping testpiece was originally done by Dan Mills many years ago and given the grade of V13, though consensus has settled at hard end V12 since then. The redpoint crux of the climb revolves around a low percentage dynamic move to a slot and can be very frustrating to work. The day was unseasonably warm, but after a tremendous amount of complaining, the project went. The uncut video of the send can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFg8Eu9FodA.







September Sends

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A cold streak appeared on the forecast and beckoned us towards the Sierras. It was the last weekend of our seemingly endless summer and a Bishop trip would surely serve as a grand finale. Cody and I met Eden and Jovanna early Friday morning and made the familiar drive north on the 395. It was officially the first day of fall and felt like it when we exited the car for breakfast. Good climbing temperatures in September have been a bit of a rarity over the years but this was a welcome change. We warmed up in the Buttermilk main area and came away with some new climbs.




We then made our way over to The Mandala, an iconic Chris Sharma line that had thwarted me for years (Eden had sent the climb nearly a decade before). How iconic is this line? Well, it has its own Wikipedia page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mandala. I managed to put it down on my second go this trip. Jovanna sent both Hero Roof and the committing Sunshine Slab.


The next morning the group hiked out to the Secrets of th…

Rocky Mountain National Park

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Our trip to Colorado was moments away from being canceled due to suspect weather but our restlessness got the best of us. What's the worst that could happen? Even if we got rained out every day, sitting in a cabin in Estes Park sounded far more pleasant than sitting in traffic in Los Angeles.
Off we were from sea level to the mile high city and beyond. The hike to Lower Chaos Canyon in the park is a steady 30 to 45 minutes of well-maintained trail hiking out of the Bear Lake parking lot. The scenery along the way is simply breathtaking, or is that the altitude?


The climbing itself sits a few minutes off a social trail in a talus field surrounding Lake Haiyaha. (How the hell do you pronounce that?) The alpine setting makes the weather variable and unpredictable and during summer time very thunderstorm prone. It stayed warm (too warm) and relatively dry enough for us to get at least a few hours of climbing in each day before being rained out and soaked to the bone on the hike down.�…

Eastern Sierras

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Jovanna and I headed up to Mammoth Lakes on Friday to enjoy the long (Labor Day) weekend in the Eastern Sierras. We arrived about mid day and hiked up to the beautiful Crystal Lake.


The next day we drove out to Tuolumne Meadows and had a great day enjoying the lakes, rivers and climbing. We started out by venturing up to the Ridge-top boulders to check out Space and Time (V10) - a 3-star crimp line. Unfortunately we got slightly lost along the way, and even though the guide suggested the approach would take 25 minutes, it took close to an hour and a half to find it. By that time it was midday and the sun was beating down. Still worth it! The line climbed well and I was able to send!



After the morning session we had lunch at Tenya lake, and explored the Tuolumne River...




When it cooled down a bit we decided to make one last stop at Dana Meadows before leaving the park. Dana Meadows doesn't have many boulders, but it's home to One Love (V12), which I wanted to check out. The lin…

Squamish (Part II)

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Cody and I were left alone in the campsite and relegated to a party of two. We kept up the motivation and made it a goal not to take any rest days and climb as many problems as we could. This involved checking out new areas that we had never been to on previous trips, but first, we spent some time in the familiar grand wall area and filled all the unchecked boxes in our guidebook.



Next up was Murrin Park, just a few minutes south of Squamish. Both Cody and I ticked off several 4 and 5 star lines. I put down the area test piece after a short sport climbing break.


Though we had both spent some time in the north wall areas earlier in the trip, we still had plenty new climbs to check out. On my last day in the forest, we got out to the newly developed Lost World. Though we got lost trying to find it, the thrashing was worth it. I even managed a surprising send of the area test piece despite the sore muscles and split tips. A great note to end the amazing trip on.





Feels strange to be back …